Herringbone Console Table, Legs

Also: Herringbone Console Table, Table Top

Our herringbone console table is now sturdy, painted, and awaiting the final coats of stain before Wipe-On Poly.  I disassembled the legs and supports, cut the table nearly 2 inches shorter, added more pocket hole screws, and on the second try and second weekend of work, the table seems ready to go!  I first saw this console table on Ana-White.com and considered it as one of my first building projects.  Once I saw a similar console table, but with little "3 inch feet" by Caitlin at Desert Domicile, I determined to build it.  I hope ours will look as amazing as Caitlin's once we have things to put on top of it.  :)

My 6:00 pm cell phone photograph of the (mostly) completed table.  I am glad I am able to stain the top separately from the painted legs.  Once the stain is the color I want, I'll use pocket hole screws to attach the top to the top stretchers, seal everything, and it will finally be done!  =D

Materials:

Console Table Legs

4 - 2x2x8 $12
Valspar sample of "Mystique" in Satin $3

Cheese cloth $1.80

Tack cloth $1.70

Miter saw, wood glue (Titebond III), clamps, wood filler, sand paper and sanding block, pocket hole jig, pocket hole screws, Olympic Semi-Gloss white paint, Wipe-On Poly, rag for cleaning  Already owned

The amount I paid is based on pricing in Hawai'i. 
The herringbone console table legs cost $18.50 to build and the majority of my Saturday, again.

As the herringbone table top component cost me $12.50, the total cost of this herringbone console table was $31 to build and finish, which is $13 more than the inspiration piece. 

Process:

The cut 2x2s, sized for the herringbone table top, with pocket hole screws.

I used clamps my brother had purchased a year or two ago to hold the side supports in place, which was helpful so I could screw in the pocket holes without the wood slipping out of place.

Hand screwing in the pocket holes solved my problem from last weekend.  My drill would strip the screws, and the pocket hole would crack and break.  Screwing the screws by hand avoided this trouble, thankfully!  To attach the front and back stretchers, I laid the leg sides and screwed in the stretchers on the floor, to use gravity to my advantage in keeping things flush.  I then flipped over the table and repeated the same procedure on the opposite two stretchers.

I sanded down the table top, even though I had stained it last weekend.  Some spots of glue had dried and did not get stained, but I didn't notice this until the stain had become dark enough.  I re-stained today, following a similar procedure as last weekend.

The console table sits under our mirrored wall clock ($20 from Ross).  I would like to continue layering Dark Walnut stain over the table top until the color resembles the depth of color of the wall clock and flooring.

Here it is: our 8.5" wide console table at the kitchen entryway of our not-yet-lived-in apartment.  Need to get back to work on sewing slipcovers and black curtains next month for that living room!  A dining table and coffee table are in the planning stages as well.  :)

Update:

After darkening the table top to reflect the espresso tones of the clock, the standing basket, and the flooring, the white legs appeared too white for me.  At Lowe's, I picked up a sample size of Valspar Mystique in Interior Satin for about $3.00 and painted the legs to a subtle cream color, similar to the middle of the clock face.

If our living room is inspired by the idea of an abstract forest, I'd like our kitchen to be inspired by an abstract ocean/garden.  Once we move in, I'll be on the hunt for a sea or garden inspired lamp and decor with pearlescent touches.  :)  I'm saving my pennies now!